Uncategorized

How To Get Rid Of Coyotes On Your Property

If you’ve ever wondered how to get rid of coyotes on your property then you’ve come to the right place. We’ve compiled several expertly-crafted articles and videos that will teach you the basics of how to trap coyotes, as well as tips and tricks to trap a coyote live. Check out the post below to see the complete guide, and be sure to send us your own trapping tips in the comments!

How To Get Rid of Coyotes

The Ultimate Guide on How To Trap Coyotes on Your Property

Trapping coyotes requires a ton of patience. Not only are they more shy than other small animals, but they’re also incredibly fast. First, we’ve got a video guide you can watch on How To Make a Coyote Trap, with the steps to follow. Then be sure to keep reading because we’ve also got Basics of Coyote Trapping, Trapping Coyotes: Sets To Trap Problem Coyote, and Trapping Coyotes with Debris Mounds below.

How to Make A Coyote Trap – Video

As you can tell, you have several options when it comes to setting your own coyote trap. In the video below, outdoor expert Heith “Gonzo” Gagnon shows how to get rid of coyotes with a step-down trapping set.

Check out the step-by-step breakdown below to see how it’s done.

You will need:

Dirt sifter
Trap (Gonzo uses a Duke #4×4 coil)
Stake or drag
Trowel
Kneeling pad
Some sort of pan cover
Ground hog hammer
Bait (he uses Minnesota Brand predator bait)
Lure (he uses GH II and fox urine)
Small bucket of dry dirt
Antifreeze (if the weather calls for it)

Step 1: Find a central location.

The best location for a step-down is somewhere that the coyotes are likely to cross. Gonzo sets his trap in a field between a trail and a gate. He also recommends putting one trap on either side of the gate; this makes it more likely to trap the coyotes.

Step 2: Begin digging an area for your trap.

Make it about 10-12 inches wide and 18-20 inches long.

Step 3: Dig a hole behind the step-down.

Make the hole about 6-10 inches deep. Make sure to wear gloves so you don’t leave too much scent behind.

Step 4: Digger a deeper hole for the step-down.

This is where you’ll insert your trap, so make sure it’s wide enough. (His trap of choice is a Duke 4×4). Leave some loose dirt over the top of the hole.

Step 5: Sprinkle antifreeze over the hole.

A little bit of antifreeze will keep the dirt and trap from freezing in cold temperatures.

Step 6: Hammer your stake into the trap bed.

This will hold your trap tight into the ground. If the dirt is soft enough, it should go into the ground pretty easily. When you’re done, pull on the trap to make sure it stays in place. Add more loose dirt to cover the chain.

Step 7: Set your trap.

Wedge your trap into the hole, then add more loose dirt to make sure it’s secure. Add a sheet of crumpled wax paper to the top of the trap, then slowly sift more dirt onto the top. Carefully smooth the dirt around the trap, then add more antifreeze to keep the dirt fresh.

Step 8: Add bait and lure.

Lastly, add your bait and lure of choice to your trap. In the video, Gonzo sprinkles fox urine as a lure on a nearby plant, and then he sticks a small flower into the hole for lure.

And there you have it! Your trap is set. Be sure to check out Gonzo’s video to see the full tutorial and to hear more of his expert trapping advice.

In the articles below, outdoor expert and writer Jared Premo explains the ins and outs of trapping coyotes. Check out this post to learn more, and be sure to post your own trapping tips in the comment section below.

Basics of Coyote Trapping – Trapping 101

How To Get Rid Of Coyotes Trapping 101

Trapping is a good way for kids to explore the outdoors, learn about animals, their habits and habitats. For some people the desire to trap never fades as years pass. For other the desire to trap doesn’t come until later in life.

The following is in essence the basics of trapping. This will cover the most popular species trappers’ target. The basics of trapping will also cover methods experiences trappers use to trap them.

Beavers and Muskrats:

Two of the most popular species trappers pursue are beavers and muskrats. Experienced trappers tend to trap beavers and muskrats in the winter, but for a beginner; trapping these species may be easier to trap in the spring and fall. The most commonly used trap for beaver is the 330 conibear. Check your local state laws; sometimes the law requires this trap to be fully submerged in water.

You should stake the trap in areas were beavers like to hang out. Such as dams, bank dens, beaver lodges, culverts, and/or canals between two bodies of water. Beavers prefer to be in slack water, which is what beavers create when they build dams. Slack water, which used to be known as ‘the stand of the tide’, is a short period in a body of tidal water when the water is completely unstressed, and therefore no movement either way in the tidal stream.

A good way to find places to trap beaver is to contact the county highway or land department. Many times they are having problems with beavers and are very happy to have a trapper take care of the problem for them.

Muskrats can be found in the same areas as beavers. Wet lands and large ponds are great locations to start your search for muskrats. Simplest way to trap muskrats is to stake a 110 conibear along the run that leads up to the den or house. If you look closely around the house or den you will notice trails the muskrats have made when they enter and exit the house or den. You want to place the 110 conibear as close to the den as possible. Check with your local regulations, in some states and areas within a state the laws may be different. In some areas it may be illegal to bait the trap and laws that regulate the distance the trap can be from the den.

Coyotes and Foxes:

Trapping fox and coyote require a little more patience. Fox and coyote tend to be a little more trap shy than beaver and muskrats. The best time for a beginner to trap fox and coyotes is in the fall. The recommended trap is the foothold. 1.5 For foxes, and 2or 3 for coyotes. The best places to set these traps are on the edges of fence rows, where to different types of crops come together, tractor ruts, or trails through the grass. Fox and coyotes like to take the path of least resistance. This tends to be a rule of thumb for most furbearers.

Remember coyotes and fox are part of the canine species; their ability to smell far surpasses humans. This is why scent control is a must. If you plan on trapping fox and coyote you need to minimize your scent. You can do this by wearing rubber boots and gloves; also by boiling your traps after you buy them and after each use.

The most common type of set to trap coyote and fox is the flat set or dirt hole set. These two sets are the most affective and easiest sets to construct. To construct the dirt hole set simple take a clump of grass or brush for a backing. This will help by directing the fox or coyote to approach the set from the right direction. Dig a hole that slants towards the backing. The hole is where you will place the baits and lures. In front of the hole dig out and area that is just big enough to place the trap and deep enough to place the trap and cover it with dirt without creating a mound; This is the trap bed. When you place the loose dirt over the trap you want the dirt to blend in with the surrounding area and look natural. Last thing to do is to place some bait into the whole and cover the bait with a clump of crass.

Mink:

Mink live near water and will find food on land and in water. Look for mink on the edges of water such as lakes, rivers, streams, and other wet lands. For the most part you want to set traps within 5 feet of the water’s edge. The best trap for mink is the 1 and 1.5 sized foothold traps. The best kind of baits to use is mink musk and muskrat musk. Bait may not be necessary.

You want to select a spot on near the water’s edge where you see mink tracks and the trails they have been using. Make your trap bed and place trap in it and cover it with leaves and grasses to make it look natural and blend in with the surrounding area. A tip from the experts, place sticks on both side and the back of the trap bed to guide the mink to step on the trap.

Raccoon:

Raccoons can be found almost anywhere in North America. Raccoons are a very commonly trapped furbearer. Raccoons can be found mostly in wooded areas and near water. Raccoons are a very curious creature, and because of this they can be trapped in almost any set. The most common trap to use for a beginner is the 220 conibear. Raccoons are very predictable creatures they will use the same trails along streams, ditches, rivers, and ponds. Set a 220 conibear along these trails for best results.

Above is just the basic a new trapper should know. Never stop educating yourself about trapping and trapping techniques. The best form of education is to find a mentor that can pass down years of wisdom to the younger generation.

(Article Source.)

Trapping Coyotes: Sets To Trap Problem Coyote

How To Get Rid Of Coyotes Sets to Trap

Trapping coyotes is more rewarding compared to other furbearers. Trapping coyotes is much more gratifying because they are much more cunning and tactful than other furbearers. If you run a trap line long enough you will come across a coyote that is hard to trap. Trapping coyotes that have escaped your trap or has busted one of your sets is not an easy task. A little preparation and a little step back, trapping coyotes no matter how trap shy they are can be an easier task than once thought.

Coyote Digging Traps

Nothing is more frustrating than walking up to a trap that has been sprung by a wise coyote. Your best bet in this situation is to pull the trap because you have been had. Trapping coyotes from this location will be next to impossible. Trappers may often attribute the sprung trap to the wariness nature of the coyote, and fail to evaluate they may be the one doing something wrong.

In this situation it could be how you have set the trap or an issue with how you are carrying your trapping gear. The coyote is digging up the trap because it smells something on the trap. The most common cause for scent to be on your trap is the traps and tools/ scents are being carried in the same compartment. The best course of action is to clean your traps and keep them separate from then on. Now you are ready to reset the trap.

The Wise Coyote

Trapping coyotes that have escaped a trap before may be the hardest of all coyotes to trap. For good reason they know the potential dangers. Trapping coyotes that have had a previous encounter with a trap will avoid your set altogether if it has a faintest hint of something amiss.

In this situation a trapper must be fully aware of the entire process of making a coyote set. This includes paying very close attention to scent contamination, for example don’t put your traps in with your scents and try to make your close and yourself as scentless as possible. Also trap placement and bedding of the trap, and the creation of the coyote set.

If still you can’t trap the wise coyote try a hay set. This should be constructed in a short grassy field. First take two NO. 3 footholds and place them about 18 to 24 inches apart. Then cover the traps lightly with hay, and create a small mound of hay in between the traps. Next add an appropriate amount of gland lure or bait to the center of the mound. The set should be the size of a 2 to 3 foot circle.

The science behind the hay bale set is it place with the coyote’s instinct to catch food. Coyotes encounter hay all the time and associate it with food, generally mice. Instead of approaching the hay cautiously, they approach with ease. When going after mice coyotes jump into the air and land on the hay trying to trap the mice. But hopefully in this case it will be a trap they land on.

The Shy Coyotes

A trap shy coyote is one that is able to identify traps that are out of the ordinary surroundings. Many times a coyote is able to identify sets because of over used scents. Tappers generally use too much gland lures and baits in a basic set. This smells will be associated with the sets and will trigger alarms that will keep the trap shy coyote far away.

To remedy this try to use baits and lures that has not been used in the area yet. Try to make your own. Chances are the coyote has not smelled your homemade lure yet. Another option is to use a scent post set. Bed the trap carefully and put only a drop or two of urine from fox, coyote, or bobcat on what you are using for a post. Coyote encounter this type of scent marking all the time in the woods.

Trapping coyote that have seen all the tricks you are trying to throw at it can be frustrating at times. If a coyote isn’t falling for your sets it’s for a reason. Sometimes you need to step back and try switching it up a little, and sometimes it can be the small things that make a difference.

(Article Source.)

Trapping Coyotes With Debris Mounds

How To Get Rid Of Coyotes Debris Mound

Trapping coyotes on farms and wide open areas you want sets that will stick out like a sore thumb. Trapping coyotes can be difficult because they are runners, they may travel 10-15 miles each night in search for food. Trapping coyotes more effectively; you want the sets to be very noticeable form a distance to catch a coyote’s attention and to draw them in. Coyotes don’t hunt every square inch of the area they call home, they hunt on the go. This means you need the coyotes to see the sets from across the field.

In order to trap coyotes this way, the placement of this coyote set is important. You want to place this set at least 15 yards from any woods or hedgerow. Coyotes feel more comfortable investigating sets and holes in the open as [opposed to] sets that are tucked close to cover or a brush pile.

The Mound:

The first thing you need to do is to rake as much of the surrounding crop debris and dirt as you can into a large pile. You need the pile to at least 18 inches high and about 4 feet long and in the shape of a crescent moon. In a cut corn field were the stubble is still standing you need to build the mounds higher than 18 inches to be seen by the coyotes over the stubble. The idea is the coyotes to see the sets from a half mile away. If you’ve done it right you will be able to see the set from the farthest point of direct viewing.

After you have gotten the mount made you want to have the area around the mound to be bare dirt, the larger the better. The bare dirt helps put the coyotes at ease, and want to investigate the set a little more.

The Hole:

Now for the hole; you need the hole to be placed in the concave of the crescent mound. This is the first step in directing the coyotes to the set and to step on the trap. You want the hole to be 5 or 6 inches wide and about 18 inches deep. Approaching coyotes should spot the hole right away. It also helps to round the edges of the hole. This helps in two ways it makes the hole look bigger and also makes the hole seem as it is being used. This helps with the visual aspect of the set.

The Trap:

Even with guiding such as the crescent mound it is still difficult to get the coyotes to step in the trap. To increase the chances of trapping the coyotes you want to use a large trap such as No. 3 Bridger or 4. Sleepy creek. Also because of the pulling force of the coyotes; it is a must that you cross stake each trap. Many times you will hear people say to guide the coyotes with subtle cues such as a small rock or a tiny stick on the loose jaw side. However for this set you want it to be a little less subtle to guide the coyotes on the trap.

To accomplish this you need to set the trap so the dirt covering the trap is about an inch deeper than the surrounding dirt. Also rough up the dirt around the trap where you don’t want the coyotes to step. You want to encourage the coyotes to stand exactly where you want when he comes to investigate the set.

You need to place the trap about a foot from the center of the hole. This is the sweet spot where the coyotes will stand when he is investigating the hole.

Baiting:

Once you have the attention of a curious coyotes you need to keep their attention. To do this you need a little bait. You want a chunk of rendered meat the size of a golf ball soaked with a solution of beaver castor and other secret ingredients from local maker. The type of meat doesn’t matter too much anything such as, chicken, turkey, squirrel, skunk, muskrat, or whatever else has been found on the road.

(Article Source.)

Want more trapping tips? Check out the posts below!

5 Sneaky Survival Snare Traps to Keep You Alive

VIDEO: How to Make a Feather Spear Trap

The Benefits of Small Game Hunting

Coyote vs. Wolf: Knowing the Difference

For awesome survival gear you can’t make at home, check out the Survival Life Store!

This Article Was First Found at survivallife.com Read The Original Article Here

Uncategorized

Homemade Weapons You Can DIY To Awaken Your Inner Caveman

Learn to make your own homemade weapons so you’ll have a fighting chance in a survival situation where all you have is nature.

[You Get One FREE] Weird Little Knife Drives TSA Crazy!

How to Make Homemade Weapons

Why Should You Learn to Make Homemade Weapons?

Let’s say you got lost in the wild, and you somehow forgot or lost your Cold Steel Leatherneck Tanto 39LSFT (or whichever is the best survival knife for you). What do you do?

While your situation is most likely not quite as bad as Tom Hanks had it in Castaway, let’s face it. The only way you’re gonna get out of this situation in good shape is to let out your inner caveman.

Let me explain. Our very primitive ancestors lived in a time when every day was a survival situation. Any tools or weapons they needed had to be made from scratch.

So, should you be unlucky enough to have only the shirt on your back while you’re lost in the wilderness, you’ll have to follow suit. Let the training of your inner caveman begin.

Today’s lesson: how to make DIY weapons in the wild with only the resources nature provided you.

How to Make a Knife | Homemade Weapons

Having a knife, any kind of knife is probably one of the best things to happen should you suddenly find yourself in a survival situation. You can use it to help you find food, build a shelter, and defend yourself against wild animals.

So it’s highly fortunate nature is waiting like a momma at a craft table with lots of materials you can use to create one.

1. Stone Knives

Bone, shell, bamboo, wood, or even an old aluminum beer can may work to perform the puncturing function of a blade. You know you’ve seen these a million times when you’re out hiking.

They’re easy to crack or break or shape into a fairly sharp point which will do in a pinch. Unfortunately, you’re not going to be able to use a chicken bone or an expertly-shaped aluminum can point to skin, chop, baton, or any of the other necessary functions of a survival knife.

This is where the stone comes into play. I’ll start by saying making a knife out of stone isn’t easy, but it can be done.

You’ll need three things: a core rock, a hammerstone, and a pressure flaker. Remember, you’re going to be smashing these together in true caveman fashion.

So, having stones you can reasonably grip in each hand is going to make your life a lot easier. Although, it’s definitely an option to stand poised over one rock smashing down on it.

You, with a two-hand grip, pounding until you’ve chipped away at it a bit. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

2. The Core Rock

rock formation background | Homemade Weapons You Can DIY To Awaken Your Inner Caveman | homemade weapons | deadliest ancient weapons

The core rock is what you’ll be making into a blade. Find any large stone, preferably made from obsidian, slate, chert, or flint with a relatively flat side.

In case you weren’t a rock collector in any of your previous lives, here’s another way to decide if a rock meets the requirements for good knife-making material. Tap or click a rock together with another rock and listen for a ringing sound (like glass).

The more rock sounds like glass, the better it is as a material for your core rock. If you can, choose a rock which is already a bit sharp to reduce the amount of time you’ll need to shape it.

3. The Hammerstone

The hammerstone is a medium-sized, spherical rock, preferably made of granite. It will be used to smash, chisel, chip and shape the core rock.

You’ll be using it to chip off pieces of the core stone and to narrow the edges to a blade shape.

4. The Pressure Flaker

The pressure flaker, or flaking tool, is a rock with a sharp point to help you refine the blade’s edges. You’ll use your flaking tool after you’ve thinned the edges of the stone with the hammer stone to make the “blade” sharper.

When you start making your knife, you’ll want to be sure to wet the core stone to shorten the time it takes to shape it into a blade. Begin by striking glancing blows near the edge of the core rock with the hammerstone.

Chip away at the core rock until you get the general shape of a blade. Then, use the flaking tool to refine the edges you need to sharpen.

You can also use a stone with a rough surface such as a sandstone to sharpen the edge. Use some rope, cloth, or leather to lash the base and create a handle.

If you are having troubling shaping the rock into a knife, you can opt to create stone blades instead. Check out the videos below to learn how:

Part One:

Part Two:

How to Make a Spear | Homemade Weapons

south african zulu spear | Homemade Weapons You Can DIY To Awaken Your Inner Caveman | homemade weapons | deadliest ancient weapons

We’ve talked about how to make a spear using your best survival knife in a previous article. The same principle applies here.

Even without your Cold Steel Leatherneck Tanto 39LSFT or whichever survival knife you normally bring with you, you can still make a spear using your newly made stone knife. To make a spear, you’ll need to find a five-foot-long stick tough enough to endure repeated short or long-distance throws.

First, pick the end of the stick which has a more rounded tip and use your stone knife to start shaving to create a spear. Once you’re done, be sure to heat the spear over some hot coals to make your spear sharper.
As an alternative, you can also make a spear by tying your knife onto a stick. Find a stick which is about an inch wide.
Measure about 2 inches from one end of the stick. Mark the point, then split the stick into two until you reach the 2-inch mark, creating a sort of Y shape.
This will create a space where you can stick your stone knife before you lash it on with some twine, cord, or rope. To lock the blade in place, put some moss or lichen in the remaining space.
If you haven’t had time to fashion your knife out of stone yet, you can also use broken pieces of shell or glass or splintered bamboo or bone and secure it to the end of your stick.
If you find a way to split your stick without a knife, you can insert the splintered bone or bamboo into the wedge and tie it off like you would when turning a knife into a spear.

How to Make a Weighted Club | Homemade Weapons

While sharp pointy tools are all well and good, you can never go wrong with a blunt homemade weapon. You can use it for hammering or bludgeoning something such as a weighted club.

The weighted club could be one of the deadliest ancient weapons. To make one, you’ll need the following: a piece of wood around 14-16 inches, a medium-sized rock, and some rope.

Once you have all the materials, you’ll need to wrap some lashing 6-8 inches from the end of the stick.
Split the same end until you reach the lashing in order to create a V-shaped notch. The rock you picked out should be shorter than the length of the split.
Insert the stone then lash it securely (above, below, and across the stone). The lashing on the stick above the stone clamps both sides of the split together providing the first point of security, so it’s especially important to create a good, tight lashing above the stone.
You’ll want to make sure you bind the split ends securely so the stone won’t fall off whenever you use it to hammer or pound on something.

This video from Wannabe Bushcrafter will show you how to make a bamboo knife:

Now, hopefully, you never find yourself in a situation where making homemade weapons is going to be a necessity for survival. But, if you do find yourself in such a quagmire, this little bit of information and inner caveman training may be what saves your life.

Which of these homemade weapons do you want to make? Tell us your progress in the comments section below!

Up Next:

Go to our Survival Life Store to shop some of our favorites self-defense tools and gear!

***Disclaimer: The contents of this article are for informational purposes only. Please read our full disclaimer.***

Editor’s Note: This post was originally published on April 11, 2014, and has been updated for quality and relevancy.

This Article Was First Found at survivallife.com Read The Original Article Here

Uncategorized

5 Home Remedies For Chigger Bites

Know these home remedies for chigger bites, or better yet, avoid the bug's bites in the first place with helpful tips included here!

In this article:

Home Remedies For Chigger Bites

What Is a Chigger, Exactly?

Chiggers are members of the arachnid family. They are extremely tiny, and my guess is you won’t even see them as they jump from the tall grass onto your skin and/or clothing.

Adult chiggers are about 1/60 of an inch and have eight legs. The larvae are red, wingless, six-legged creatures which measure less than 1/150 of an inch.

Because of their red color, you might be able to spot the larvae when they cluster together, especially on white clothing.

What Is the Arachnid Family? It is a large group or class of invertebrate animals where the spiders and scorpions belong.

Where Do Chiggers Live?

Chiggers reside in tall weeds and grass, berry patches, and wooded areas. They could be in your backyard, by the lake, or your favorite hiking trail.

They are most active in summer and fall afternoons – the warmest part of the day.

Identifying Chiggers Bites

Only the larvae bite humans and they tend to choose warm, moist areas of the body.

Chiggers also have claws which help them grab onto your skin. The chigger then attaches its mouth to the skin and injects saliva.

The saliva contains an enzyme which breaks skin cells down to liquid form. Your body responds by hardening skin cells around the saliva, creating a tube (cyclostome) through which the chigger sucks the dissolved skin cells.

Chiggers can stay attached and feeding for several days before falling off.

When the chigger falls off, you are left with reddish bumps. You may notice a bright red dot in the center—this is a remnant of the tube your skin formed in response to the chigger's saliva.

The bumps may look like welts, blisters, pimples, or hives. Bites generally appear in groups and get larger for several days to a week.

While many insects bite exposed skin which is easy to get to, chiggers like to bite in folds of skin as well as places where clothing fits tightly on the skin. Most chigger bites occur around the ankles, waist, armpits, crotch, or behind the knees.

Home Remedies for Chigger Bites

Just remember, no matter what, DO NOT SCRATCH THE BITES! I know, easier said than done. But, breaking the skin on a chigger bite can lead to infection.

Here are 5 home remedies to help with the itching and swelling.

1. Vicks Vapor Rub

|
Vicks Vapor Rub can put an end to itchy chigger bites immediately and will even reduce the risk of blisters. It’s the cooling menthol in it which relieves itching by affecting itch receptors in the skin.

Steps:

Take a hot shower (use antibacterial soap.) Pat dry your skin with a soft towel.
Take a small amount of the vapor rub and add some table salt to it.
Mix well and apply to the affected area.
Repeat if the swelling continues (otherwise, there is no need to repeat the process)

2. Cold Compress

|
A cold compress can help reduce the itching associated with chigger bites. Its numbing effect helps reduce the sensation of itchiness.

Steps:

Wrap some ice cubes in a thin cloth.
Apply the compress to the bites for 10 minutes. Repeat if needed to relieve itching.

3. Baking Soda

|
Baking soda is another effective remedy to reduce rashes as well as itchiness. It acts as a natural acid neutralizer which helps relieve itching and reduces the risk of infection.

Steps:

Add 1 cup of baking soda to a bathtub filled with cool water.
Stir well and soak in this water for 15 minutes and pat your skin with a soft towel. (Do this once daily)

Another remedy using baking soda:

Prepare a thin paste of 2 teaspoons of baking soda and a little water.
Apply the paste on the affected areas and leave it on for about 10 minutes.
Rinse it off with cool water.

Note: Do not use this remedy more than once or twice a day. Never use baking soda on broken skin or open wounds.

4. Oatmeal

|
Oatmeal contains anti-irritating, anti-inflammatory and soothing properties providing instant relief from itching–one of the common symptoms of chigger bites. It is recommended to use colloidal oatmeal, meaning oats which are ground into an extremely fine powder.

(You can accomplish this yourself by grinding regular oats in a sealed Ziploc bag, using the backside of a spoon to crush the oatmeal.)

Steps:

Add 1 cup of colloidal oatmeal to a bathtub filled with warm water
Stir thoroughly
Soak in this mixture for at least 15-20 minutes
Repeat 2-3 times a day

5. Olive Oil

|
Olive oil can also be used to get relief from the irritation and inflammation. It is rich in vitamin E and antioxidants which reduce itching and facilitate healing.

Steps:

After rinsing the affected area with water, apply olive oil to the chigger bite.
Reapply several times a day.

Another option using olive oil:

Mix a few drops of tea tree oil in 1 tablespoon of olive oil and apply on the affected area.
Repeat a few times a day.

Tips to Avoid Chigger Bites and Chigger Bites Infection

As summer and fall are prime time for chigger bites, it is best to take the following precautions:

When hiking, stay in the center of the trail and avoid brushing up against vegetation.
Wear long sleeves and long pants when going into the woods.
Apply mosquito repellent on your hands, feet, and exposed skin on your arms before going outside.
Shower immediately after being outdoors and use antibacterial soap.
Wash your clothes in hot water.
Resist the urge to scratch because breaking the skin on chigger bites can lead to a possible infection.

This video from Online Pest Control will show you tips to avoid chiggers and ways to get rid of chiggers:

Chigger bites much like other insect bites aren't only discomforting, they can be dangerous too. Many of these insects including chiggers carry diseases in some cases.

The best way to deal with these bugs is to avoid them or control them with our tips here. But, if you're so unlucky, you also now know the best home remedies to chigger bites!

Have you had to deal with chigger bites before? Tell us how, including more useful tips which worked for you in the comments section below!

Up Next:

Go to our Survival Life Store to shop some of our favorites self-defense tools and gear!

***Disclaimer: The contents of this article are for informational purposes only. Please read our full disclaimer.***

Home Remedies For Chigger Bites | https://survivallife.com/5-home-remedies-for-chigger-bites/

Editor’s Note: This post was originally published on June 28, 2016, and has been updated for quality and relevancy.

This Article Was First Found at survivallife.com Read The Original Article Here

Uncategorized

9 Good Reasons To Carry A “Survival Stick”

Arm yourself with a survival stick, get savvy with it, but first, find out why as you read on!

In this article:

Survival Stick: An Underrated Multipurpose Tool?

The Survival Stick in History

A walking stick or a survival cane were popular in the 17th and 18th centuries as a decorative show of power and a defensive replacement for a sword. Yet, the truth is our ancestors have been using them for thousands of years, and for good reason…

…They work! Even the animal kingdom is smart enough to know just how useful these are:

(It may be hard to see, but this gorilla is holding a walking stick to gauge the depth of the water as she sloshes along)

A walking stick is not a new or revolutionary idea. In fact, the use of a walking stick predates history and its use continued on for generations including this present time.

Yet, it is one which is more often than not overlooked. When most people think of a walking stick, it is usually paired with a top hat or seen as a crutch for someone with a walking disability.

Far too few people even realize how important a walking stick can be, especially to someone in the outdoors. We will dig a little deeper into the many uses of a survival stick and maybe safely say, it could be the first multi-purpose survival tool.

Practical and Survival Uses for a Survival Stick

Walking sticks are also known as trekking poles, pilgrim's staffs, hiking poles and hiking staff have quite a few different uses:

1. Survival Hiking Stick

Hold the survival stick in front of you and you can use it to clear your way by parting brushes and branches or leaves and thick tall grasses. You can also use it to clear spiderwebs, especially if you're not too fond of spiders.

Other insects, animals, poisonous plants, and even animal dung can get in the way. Use a survival stick to inspect or poke at those things if you are unsure, and never ever your hands or your feet.

2. Survival Stick for Support

Hiker in Caucasus mountains is crossing mountain river | Good Reasons To Carry A "Survival Stick" | hiking staff
Making your way through an uneven terrain will be more manageable with a walking stick for support. Whether you're going up or down, use the walking stick to either slow you down or hold you up.

You can use your walking stick like breaks to keep you from speeding down or use it to latch on to a rock or crevice when you're climbing up. Besides for yourself, you can also use your multipurpose stick as a support for your tarp emergency shelter.

3. Fetching/Reaching Things

It happens–a supply or gear falling on water, mud, puddle or in an area you dare not walk into. You can fetch or reach for those items with a stick.

It also happens where you need an item over a physical barrier and only a stick can fetch the item for you. You can also reach for fruits, nest, or other food sources up a tree or high structure with a stick.

4. Walking Staff Weapon for Self-Defense

To use a survival stick as a weapon, make sure it's a sturdy stick with a finished look and not just any stick you found along the way. You can use it to defend yourself from an attacker whether it's human or animals.

I would suggest to train yourself in some form of martial arts using a stick like a baton as a weapon to have a better handle at it.

You can also fashion a spear with your stick by tying a survival knife on one end. Don't throw this spear though or you risk damaging or losing your knife and stick.

Hold on to your homemade spear and only use it to thrust at your target.

5. Balance

Hiker is crossing the river in Sweden | Hiker in Caucasus mountain | Good Reasons To Carry A "Survival Stick" | survival hiking stick When you're crossing a log bridge over a stream or you're going through the stream itself or other bodies of water, a walking stick can help you balance so you don't fall over. If you're walking through a muddy or rocky waterbed, a walking stick will help you up.

If you're up for it and if the body of water isn't too wide across, you can also use a long stick like a pole vault to cross over so you don't get yourself wet.

6. Gauging Depth

Relative to crossing bodies of water, a survival stick is handy in identifying dips beneath the waters which could cause you to stumble. You can also use the stick to identify where it's safe to take the next step.

You can also use this simple trick with the stick when you're traveling in deep snow, marshland, and even the dessert.

7. Carrying Gear and Supplies

Use your survival stick to help you carry gear and supplies. Pack your supplies with a shemagh, tie it tight to one end of your stick then place the stick over your shoulders in hobo fashion.

You can also carry more supplies with your survival stick. Even today, a carrying pole is used by indigenous people all over the world to carry heavy supplies you never thought possible.

Hang bags of supplies or jars of water on either side of the pole or stick, putting a stopper like a notch or tie on both ends so they don't fall off. Place the center of the stick over your shoulders and balance your load to your destination.

8. Club

Man carrying blue backpack | Good Reasons To Carry A "Survival Stick" | walking staff weapon
Use your survival stick like a club to knock obstacle down. A pillar of rocks or other objects may be on your way and a sturdy stick can help you safely knock those.

If you are in a building with glass doors or windows or inside a car, you can break the glass with a stick. Make to knock over pieces around your entrance or exit with the stick, too.

9. Fishing Rod

You only need to bring a fishing kit and your survival stick will make a good fishing rod. Tie a line on one end of your walking stick and fish away.

A DIY fishing pole is actually effective and many a fish has been caught this way.

As you guys and gals already know, I am a stickler for carrying things only if they have multiple uses. This guy managed to fit almost an entire survival kit into a walking stick he built from scratch, for under $20.00.

Check out this video from SOS 2054 I found, and find out for yourself, too:

A humble walking stick will indeed surprise you with what it can do for your defense, convenience, safety, and survival. Since you know now the practical and survival uses of this primitive multi-purpose tool, it won't surprise me if it lands a top spot on your list of survival tools for camping, hiking, or SHTF.

What other uses can you think of for carrying a “survival stick”? Let us know in the comments section below!

Up Next:

Go to our Survival Life Store to shop some of our favorites self-defense tools and gear!

**Disclaimer: The contents of this article are for informational purposes only. Please read our full disclaimer.

Editor’s Note: This post was originally published on October 11, 2013, and has been updated for quality and relevancy.

This Article Was First Found at survivallife.com Read The Original Article Here